The Arctic Island of Senja

Senja is Norway’s next largest island excluding the islands of Svalbard. Its main settlement is Silsand, and this is where I grew up. Far north, I know, and from a global perspective, quite remote. For us living here, it doesn’t feel like it 😀 That is, now, as an adult, I can appreciate it, as a teenager I could not, and that’s why I packed my bags and moved to Oslo when I had finished high school 😀

Senja has been called Norway in miniature. It has the fjords, the mountains, the islets, and even the sandy beaches. However, probably most known for the peaks, and said to have 50 of them over 750 meters. The most popular one for a while now, has been Segla. The mountains are so tall and fierce looking, that they have inspired trolls stories way back. There used to be a small troll theme park, but unfortunately it burned down a couple of years ago. The cafe might still be open during summer. Worth checking out.

Exploring the island is done by car, if you’re not prone to more physical activities, like bicycling. Road conditions vary, but overall good. Roads can be narrow, and tunnels without lights are found here and there. In the winter, make sure you are accustomed to snow and icy roads, and be aware roads can be closed due to avalanches. Year round buses are few and far between.

The most common, and recommended, way of visiting the island, especially if you are short on time, is to do the ring road. Many also do the Norwegian Scenic Route, which will cover the best parts of the ring road, and also pass by the old trading post turned resort, Hamn. Otherwise exploring will be a lot of driving along a fjord to the end of the road, and backtrack. Time consuming, as there are many fjords and headlands. It’s just recently I’ve been able to say I’ve been «everywhere». Not all villages off the ring road and the Norwegian Scenic Route are of interest, so I’ve picked out the ones that stood out to me.

Skrolsvik has remains of a German fort from World War II.

Senja has received attention for their design public toilets. Two are placed along the ring road, the Golden Crapper and the Million Kroner Crapper. Now Mefjordvær has opened the newest addition to the series. No name as far as I know. I call it the New Crapper 🙂 When a friend of mine saw my photos, she said: it must be the crapper with the best view 😀

Update: Just found out the name of the new toilet is the Boathouse Crapper, Naustdassen in Norwegian.

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Husøy is a small island off the coast of Senja, connected by a pier. When I was a kid they used to practise siesta 😀

Grunnfarnes

Kaldfarnes

In Flakstadvåg stop by the general store, where locals pop by to have coffee with the owner.

The road to Laukvik ends by a small, sandy beach.

Bøvær hosts a long, sandy beach, and Kråkeslottet, which is an old fish factory turned rental venue, where a music festival and an arts festival are held every year.

Russevåg

Stonglandseidet has a coffee roastery with a cafe, and views of the church and sea.

Kaperdalen and Svanelvdalen are where we go for skiing or just sitting in the sun barbecuing hotdogs during the Easter holidays.

Senjatrollet, the troll theme park that burned down

These days many villages have accommodation alternatives, might not be of the cheap sort, but they are available. A place for socialising, be it a restaurant, cafe or pub. Adventure tour companies, like deep sea fishing or hiking/mountaineering. Grocery stores, possibly general stores. I must admit I was surprised that some of the villages are as big as they are.

Reaching Senja is not the most straight forward. The easiest approach is to fly to Bardufoss Airport, and hop on the airport «express» bus. It will take you on a detour. I don’t appreciate it much, as I want to get home as soon as possible. Visitors like it a lot more, as they get to see the area. Last stop is Silsand. As an alternative, rent a car, and drive yourself. You can also get here from Tromsø and Harstad on the express passenger ferry. Get off at Finnsnes, on the mainland. It’s the region’s largest settlement, and connected to Senja by bridge. It’s the only overland access. The express passenger ferry also runs these routes: Tromsø-Lysnes (Northern Senja) and Harstad-Skrolsvik (Southern Senja). An alternative way of coming by sea is Hurtigruten. Stops at Finnsnes both going north and south. In the summer season, car ferries run from Andenes (Andøya) to Gryllefjord (Southern Senja) and from Botnhamn (Northern Senja) to Brensholmen (Kvaløya). This is also how to enter and exit along the Norwegian Scenic Route. Arriving by long-distance bus is also possible, but I imagine there will have to be a few interchanges to reach your destination.

More and more people are discovering the island. Popularity is definitely on the rise. Mostly for summer, but also for the northern lights and winter scenery. If you want to avoid the hoards of Lofoten, you can have Senja to yourself – for a while!

Website: visitsenja.no

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